Two years ago, I traveled to Croatia for the first time to learn more about my grandmother’s hometown and my heritage. I found myself celebrating the holiday season in a country that, unbeknownst to me at the time, was about to become much more than a travel destination. Croatia would soon become a part of my identity—and my new country of citizenship.
Spending Christmas in Zagreb, visiting my grandmother’s hometown, and exploring the Istria Peninsula for New Year’s was an unforgettable experience. As I write this, I’m listening to The Dream by Roko Blažević from Split, Croatia. It’s a song that feels like a love letter to Croatia—a fitting soundtrack for the memories I want to share. (Press ▶️ above to listen.)
Christmas in Zagreb
Zagreb in December is magical. Christmas markets are famous across Europe, and Zagreb’s have been voted #1 multiple times. Surprisingly, the city stays lively until the early hours of the morning, with families and even young children out late at night. Croatia is ranked the 18th safest country in the world (out of 195), and I could feel that safety firsthand—even as I rented a car and drove for three days without understanding the road signs.
While in Zagreb, I took a hop-on, hop-off bus tour and was the only passenger. The two drivers kept up a lively conversation in Croatian, occasionally yelling out the names of monuments in English. Meanwhile, I listened to the audio guide through headphones. Having done similar tours around the world, this one was both informative and amusing.
Another highlight was a wine and paint night, where I joined the “English” table. The group included a German couple on a date night, Croatian friends fluent in English, and Giselle, a solo traveler from Belgium. Giselle, who was dating a Croatian but living in the Netherlands, reminded me how empowering solo travel can be. We painted and talked about where she had visited in Croatia. From our conversations, the next city on my bucket list is Zadar!
I loved how welcoming everyone was, taking an interest in my family and my grandmother’s story. One young woman’s mother was so curious that she asked her daughter to translate. Her daughter, clearly less enthusiastic about the task, complied with a reluctant smile while I talked away and showed pictures of my family.
That night, as I walked about 1/2 mile back to my hotel, I passed parks filled with Christmas lights, food stalls, mulled wine stands, and even a live jazz band singing American Christmas tunes. Back at Hotel Dubrovnik, I enjoyed a glass of wine while admiring my painting—a piece that now lives with a dear friend, bringing her joy.
A Personal Pilgrimage to My Grandmother’s Hometown
After a few days in Zagreb, I drove about 1.5 hours to my grandmother’s small hometown—a deeply personal journey that brought me closer to her and my heritage. The town’s rural charm resonated with me, and I understood why she settled in a small American town. It must have felt like home away from home.
The town was formed around a castle, dates back to medieval times and was held by noble families. Today, there are only a little over 3,200 residents, and it was a very peaceful, beautiful town.
Exploring the Istria Peninsula
I headed on to the coast, but on the way I encountered two tunnels which go under mountains. The first, the Mala Kapela Tunnel, is Croatia’s longest at 3.5 miles. I didn’t realize how extensive it was until I was well into it! I have to admit; I almost had a panic attack. My mind kept wondering…How long is this? What happens if it floods? Why are there fans in here? How am I still getting radio signals? (It turns out the tunnel has internet connectivity to maintain communications.) The second, the Brinje Tunnel, was mercifully shorter at under a mile.
When I finally reached the coast, I stopped at a gas station in Senj and decided to test my limited Croatian. I managed to say, "Oprostite. Razumiješ li engleski?" (Excuse me, do you understand English?) Thankfully, the woman was fluent and even helped fill my tank while listening to my story. Again, she was someone who was so interested and happy to hear that I was looking into my history and roots.
Driving along the coast felt like heaven. The scenery reminded me of Scotland, another part of my heritage and so beautiful. The calm, soothing landscapes were breathtaking. Though I stopped for photos along the way, exhaustion caught up with me after hours of driving. When I finally reached my hotel in Labin, Hotel Peteani, I immediately fell asleep. I woke just in time to see fireworks and ring in the new year. Then I sat up and watched “The Holiday” which was in English with Croatian subtitles. That was fun!
Labin and Pula: History and Heritage
The next day, I had brunch with an American I had met through Instagram. She shared her experiences of living in Croatia, building community, and the history of Labin—a hilltop coal town that has belonged to Italy, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and now Croatia.
Afterward, I traveled to Pula, one of my favorite towns so far. Pula is located on the Adriatic and has a rich history, having been part of the Venetian, Habsburg, and Italian territories until 1947. It then became part of the former-Yugoslavia and now Croatia. The city’s Roman amphitheater, known as the Arena, is among the six largest surviving Roman arenas in the world and still hosts concerts and film festivals.
A Farewell Drive
Before heading to Spain to celebrate my birthday, I drove along the coast to Rovinj, took some pics, drove through another mountain tunnel, passed through Karlovac, and headed back to fly out of Zagreb. But Croatia stayed with me. This trip wasn’t just a holiday; it was a revelation.
Now, as a citizen of Croatia, I feel a profound sense of belonging to the country that shaped my grandmother, my grandfather, my family, and is now shaping me.
Croatia: A Land of History, Heart, and Hidden Beauty
Croatia is a land of history, heart, and hidden beauty. If you’ve never considered Croatia for the holidays—or any time of year—let this be your sign to discover its magic. Play The Dream by Roko as you plan your trip, and let it guide you through the beauty of my grandmother’s—and now my—country. 🇭🇷♥️
Happy New Year! or Sretna Nova Godina! (in Croatian)
Here’s to a happy and healthy 2025! 🥂🎊
“The Dream” by Roko Blažević, from the album The Dream. © 2019 Croatia.
